Frequently Asked Questions

Are you licensed and insured? 

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• Home inspectors in South Carolina are required to be licensed with the state, but they are not required to be insured. Stephen Houmard's license number with the Residential Builders Commission is #2046, issued in 2006. Additionally, we carry professional home inspector insurance and general liability insurance as well. 

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Are you a 'Certified' home inspection company?   

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• Our senior home inspector Stephen Houmard is a 'Certified Home Inspector' and a 20-year member of the American Society of Home Inspectors ('ASHI' at ashi.org). The value of being a member of a certifying organization like ASHI is that we are required to take a certain amount of continuing education each year to maintain and grow our technical knowledge. Additionally, as a member of ASHI, our home inspections must meet their standards in terms of what we inspect and don't inspect (see 'Standards of Practice' link at the bottom of our website for more information). At Solid Ground, we are proud to say that our inspection methodology exceeds the ASHI requirements and we have increased our scope as new technologies have become available to us over time. That said, home inspectors are not required to belong to a third-party certifying organization like ASHI or InterNachi ('International Association of Certified Home Inspectors' at nachi.org).

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How long does a home inspection take? 

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• The time it takes to inspect a house varies depending on its age, size (square footage), type of foundation (slab, crawlspace or elevated/park underneath), condition (original condition-old home, updated/renovated or newly built) and if you attend the full inspection (factoring in time for questions and discussion about repair needs). For a typical home built from 2000 to present with 1500 square feet on a slab foundation, a home inspection should take an average of 2 hours or so. 

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Should I attend my home inspection? 

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• Our home inspection will be 'interactive' which means our Certified Home Inspector Stephen Houmard will go through the house with you top to bottom, inside and out. He'll show you all the parts of pieces of the home and how all the equipment and appliances work. Then, if there are any repair needs, he'll explain what's going on and what needs to be done to make the repairs. As a result, we highly recommend that you attend the home inspection if you can. And our interactive inspection is especially helpful if you're a first-time home buyer, if you're buying a brand new house, if you're buying an older or historic house or, if you're moving to Charleston from out-of-state.

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Do you work with first-time home buyers?

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• Absolutely -- working with first-time home buyers is one our specialties due to the interactive nature of our home inspection service :) If you're buying your very first home -- whether its a condo, townhouse or a single family house -- congrats! When house hunting for the first time, its exciting to be able to really look at the houses you've been dreaming of and to finally be able to put an offer on a home and then have it accepted by the seller. By the time you get the home inspection part however, you may be feeling a bit overwhelmed. There are a lot of steps in the buying process and a lot to learn! But you can relax -- we're here to help.

 

• Once your contract is ratified, its time to schedule your home inspection. Since you're a first-time home buyer, we strongly recommend that you attend your home inspection if you can. We'll be happy to schedule your inspection on a day and time that works best for your schedule so you can attend. Even if you can't attend, no worries. The home inspector will call you at the end for a recap of his findings or, your Realtor may be able to go thru the home with the inspector and connect with you in via Facetime. Plus, we'll take plenty of photos and videos to include in your report. 

 

• During your inspection, we're going to teach you all about the condition of your house, how everything works and what repairs are needed. Plus, we'll show you how all the systems work together to create a safe and comfortable living environment for you and your family and how to take care of your home after you move in. Especially for first-time home buyers, you'll want to take a moment to look thru 'What to Expect At Your Home Inspection' because it contains valuable information such as: 

  • The nature and scope of a home inspection

  • How the inspector will evaluate the home

  • What a home inspection does not include

  • Limitations -- what the inspection can't tell you

  • Selecting the best home inspector for the job

  • What you need to do before your inspection

  • Getting the most out of your home inspection

  • Making sense of the inspection report

  • What to ask the seller to repair before closing 

  • Short and longer-term home warranties

  • After you move in​

 

• It’s helpful to keep in mind on inspection day that all homes –- even brand new ones -– have minor imperfections. Your inspection report will highlight the condition of the house and any items which need attention. If there are a number of items which need attention -- relax. There are really just three things you need to know about the house you are buying:

  1. Does the house have any significant structural or mechanical issues that need to be corrected?

  2. Is everything that you’ll need to live in the house comfortably in good working order?

  3. Is the house a safe place to live?

 

Plus, your Realtor will help identify those items which need to be fixed before you close and those which can be attended to after you move in or down the road. Be sure to get estimates from the appropriate professionals (i.e. plumber, electrician etc.) once you have your inspection report in hand.

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What if I live out-of-town and can't attend my home inspection? 

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• If you can't be at your home inspection, no worries :) Just let us know and we can have your home inspector give you a call at a convenient time to review the findings with you by phone. Or, your inspector will be happy to talk with you during the inspection via facetime -- just ask your Realtor to see if he/she can dial you in! Also, we take plenty of photos and videos that will be included in your inspection report as well.

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• If you'll be coming into town sometime after the inspection and would like to meet with the inspector at the house to discuss any repair needs in person, just let us know and we'll schedule a time for you (there is a small fee for an 'After-Inspection Walk-Through'). 

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What does your home inspection cover? 

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• As part of our comprehensive inspection, we'll assess the roof covering, exterior, structural system (foundation/roof structure/floor/wall/ceiling), insulation and ventilation, interior (walls / ceilings / floors / doors / cabinets / counters / fixtures, etc.), kitchen appliances, plumbing, electrical, HVAC and garage. For more information on what we inspect and how we report our findings, be sure and check out one of our sample reports and/or review the ASHI standards of practice via the links below at the bottom of our site. Additionally, we'll perform an infrared thermal image scan of the house top-to-bottom to ensure there is no moisture where it shouldn't be, or electrical hot spots or missing insulation. 

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• Another way to think about what's covered in your home inspection is that we focus on five key areas:​​​

  • Age & Condition of Major Components – Big-ticket items such as the roof, HVAC system, water heater, and kitchen appliances have limited lifespans. Knowing their age and condition helps you plan for upcoming replacements.​

  • Damaged or Deteriorated Materials – Worn roof shingles and window sill wood rot may not need repair today or tomorrow.  If left unchecked however, they can lead to bigger (and more expensive) damage to your home down the road.​

  • Future Risk Factors – Conditions that can cause damage to your home over time, like water pooling around the foundation or high humidity in the crawlspace, will be flagged so you can promptly address them.​

  • Safety Concerns – Outdated wiring, missing safety devices, or other hazards that can put you and your family at risk will be identified so you can make the home safer right away.

  • Mechanical Systems – Are the essentials working as they should? This includes things you rely on daily, like cool air from the A/C, hot running water, and functioning kitchen appliances.​

 

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• For an extra fee, we can also perform a sewer line inspection via our video-cam which is inserted into an exterior access on the sewer line. With our sewer scope, the home inspector will be able to see the condition of the sewer line as it travels underground from the house out to where it connects with the city sewer lines to identify clogs or damage to the line which can lead to a sewage back-up inside house.  

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• If you have specific area of concern about the house you're buying, please let us know so your home inspector can pay particular attention to it during the inspection. If you're able to attend your inspection in person, simply bring any concerns to the inspector's attention and he'll discuss them with you as the inspection proceeds. ​​

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Do you use a thermal imaging infrared camera during your home inspection?

 

• Yes! Every Solid Ground home inspection includes a complimentary infrared thermal imaging scan of the entire house — top to bottom, inside and out. Our home inspector is a certified infrared thermographer and uses a professional-grade FLIR camera to detect issues that aren't visible to the naked eye, including hidden moisture behind walls, roof and plumbing leaks, missing or inadequate insulation, electrical hot spots that could indicate fire hazards and HVAC issues. Because thermal imaging is invaluable for every home, we've made it a core part of our home inspection service :)

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Do I need a termite inspection and do you offer this service? 

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• As part of your home inspection, your inspector will make you aware of visible signs of termites, past infestations, or even other pests like wasps or rodents. However, a full termite inspection is outside the scope of a standard home inspection and requires a licensed pest professional. As a result, we choose not to offer the termite inspection so that we focus on the home inspection. In our view, when you hire a dedicated termite professional in addition to your home inspector you gain two sets of trained eyes -- not just one -- for the same money spent, especially when it comes to something as destructive and hard to detect as termites.

 

• In fact, the state of South Carolina and mortgage lenders almost always require a ‘clear’ termite letter (also called a CL100 Wood Infestation Report) before closing, so be sure to check with your Realtor to see if you or the home seller is responsible for getting this done. A "clear" report indicates that there is no active infestation, no unrepaired damage and no improper moisture conditions. Even if not required, we strongly recommend a termite inspection, and here’s why:

  • Hidden structural damage -- Termites can quietly compromise a home’s framing or subfloor for years before being detected.

  • No insurance coverage -- Most homeowner’s insurance policies do not cover termite damage, leaving the cost entirely on the homeowner.

  • High repair costs -- Treating an active infestation and repairing damage can easily run into the thousands of dollars.

  • Negotiating leverage -- If a termite inspection uncovers issues, buyers gain bargaining power to request repairs, treatment or a price adjustment before closing.

  • Termites pose a serious structural risk, and a dedicated inspection is one of the smartest specialty services you can invest in when buying a home. We are happy to refer to you to an excellent, experienced termite inspector -- just ask us! 

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The home I'm buying has a septic system and a water well -- does a home inspection cover these?

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• If you're buying a home in a rural area, chances are good that it will have a septic system and/or a water well -- you'll want to ask the home seller to know for sure. While these systems are beyond the scope of the home inspection, we'll be happy to refer you to a septic and well company who can perform a thorough inspection for these important systems. That said, we will perform a plumbing inspection inside the house like normal and we will let you know if there are any signs of issues in the septic field outside. If the water supply for the home you're buying is sourced from a water well, its also a good idea to have the water quality tested as well. ​​​

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Will you make sure the house I'm buying is 'up to code' as part of your home inspection?  

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• While many home buyers ask for an inspection that ensures the house is “up to code,” it’s important to know what that really means. Building codes are legal rules -- set by local and state governments -- that define minimum standards for construction, safety, materials and design. They apply to new construction and major renovations and are enforced by local government building officials.

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• Home inspectors, on the other hand, inspect the condition of the home. They spot defects, safety issues and repair needs. They may be aware of current or past code requirements, and some of what they check overlaps with code (such as spacing of stair handrails, electrical safety, etc.). But home inspectors are not code inspectors -- they do not issue code violation citations, nor do they guarantee that everything in the home meets local building codes and they can’t force a seller to make changes. Their role is to protect you, the buyer, by pointing out issues that may affect safety, function, or long-term maintenance.

 

• For example, modern electrical codes require three-prong grounded outlets in new homes. This change was adopted decades ago to improve safety, reduce shock risk and protect modern appliances. However, in older homes it’s still common to find two-prong outlets, which were standard at the time the house was built. Thus, a home inspector will note two-prong outlets in the inspection report and will recommend upgrading them or adding GFCI protection for safety. But this isn’t a “code violation” that the seller is required to fix and the home inspector is not going to cite the specific code related to three-prong outlets — it’s simply an older condition that doesn’t meet today’s standards.

 

• That said, if you're buying a renovated old home, the home seller was required to obtain a building permit for electrical work (and plumbing, HVAC, etc.) done as part of the rehab and as a result, anything electrical must meet today's building codes. When there is a building permit, the local government will send out a building code official at certain intervals to ensure that the work meet current building codes. 

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If the home seller makes repairs before closing, can you come back for a re-inspect? 

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• Absolutely! If the seller makes any repairs from your home inspection report before closing, we're happy to return to the house for a RepairCheck. The purpose of the RepairCheck is to verify that repairs have been made as agreed to by the seller and that the work is professionally done. There is a $150 for this optional service. Be sure to get all of the repair invoices from the seller at closing just in case the appliance/equipment/item stops working after move-in -- this way you can call and have that contractor come back out and make the repair again (ideally at no extra charge.) 

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When will I receive my inspection report? 

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• After your home inspection is complete, we'll create an inspection report that will be sent to you with a copy to your Realtor (if you're working with one) via email within 24 hours. If your due diligence is just about up and need it sooner, just let us know and we'll get your report to you either that evening or next morning. ​​​​

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Can I ask my inspector -- "Would you buy this house?"

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• While we can't make the purchase decision for you, our goal is to give you as much objective information about the home's condition as we can so you can determine if this is the right house for you — the same information we would tell our own family members if they were buying the home. Simply ask our home inspector Stephen if he'd "move his wife and child in" or what specific repairs are needed before he'd move his family in :)

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What happens if my home "fails" the inspection?

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• A home inspection is a visual review of the house and its major systems to evaluate its condition and identify potential repair needs so you know exactly what you’re buying. The goal of the inspection isn’t to “pass or fail” the house, but to give you clear, objective and actionable information so you can decide with confidence if it’s the right home for you.

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• As a result, our thorough and detailed inspection will give you a lot of objective information about a home's condition so you can answer these questions:

  • Is everything in the house working as it should?  What needs repair before I can move in and what can be repaired down the road? 

  • Are there any structural issues or safety hazards that need repair?

  • What's the age and condition of the roof, kitchen appliances, water heater and HVAC? How much useful life do they have left and about when will they next need to be replaced? 

  • Is there any system/component/item that's deteriorating which I need to keep an eye on after move in? 

  • As a whole, am I equipped to take on a house that has these repair needs (in terms of the time and money it will take) or is the repair list more than what I can manage at this time?  

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What happens if something breaks or stops working after I move in? Do you offer a warranty? 

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• Included with your home inspection is a 90-day basic home warranty which starts on the day of the inspection. This limited warranty is intended to help cover the cost of an unforeseen repair for an item which was working as it should at the time of your inspection, but for whatever reason, happens to break or malfunction after the inspection has taken place. For example, this warranty will come in handy if you notice the dishwasher leaking after you've run it a few times soon after move-in. Please note if closing is delayed beyond 90 days, the warranty remains in effect until closing plus 21 days. That said, our home inspections are very thorough and our methodology exceeds the ASHI Standards of Practice (American Society of Home Inspectors).

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• If you're buying a house that's 10 years old or more, we recommend purchase of a comprehensive 1 year home warranty from a company like American Home Shield. Once the kitchen appliances, water heater and HVAC equipment start to have some age of them, even if they worked fine on the day of your home inspection, they will start to need repairs at some point. **Also, we definitely recommend having the HVAC equipment serviced, cleaned and refrigerant levels checked either before closing or right after you move-in.** 

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• If you're buying an older/old home or an historic home that has not been fully renovated, we strongly recommend purchase of a comprehensive 1 year warranty.

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• Alternatively, if you're purchasing an older home that has had some updates, but hasn't been fully renovated, you can purchase a system-by-system warranty from HomeServe (homeserve.com). For example, if you're buying an older home that has a recently updated kitchen with brand new appliances, but the HVAC equipment is 10 years old or more, then you could purchase just the HVAC warranty from HomeServe which will cost $5 to $15 or so per month and you can keep the warranty for as long as you like (i.e. until you replace the equipment!) We have several system warranties through HomeServe and they have really come in handy for our old 1968 brick ranch! 

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• If something in your home breaks or stops working after the 90-day home warranty period, give us a call first before you call a contractor -- we might be able to save you some money :) By calling us first, we can objectively assess the situation and recommend next steps -- there are a range of minor issues that commonly happen in a home which are inexpensive to have repaired. If the situation is a bit more complicated and requires an in-person assessment, we're happy to stop by your home and see what's going on (at no extra charge -- free on-going consulting is included with your home inspection!)   

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Is there an extra charge to complete insurance forms after my home inspection? 

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• If you have one or more forms from your insurance company that we can complete with information collected from your home inspection and which may provide you with valuable discounts on your homeowners insurance, we are happy to complete these at no extra charge :) Simply bring a print out of the form(s) to your home inspection and ask your inspector to fill it out when he's completed your inspection. Or, you can email the forms to our office at erika@solidgroundinspections.com and we'll have your inspector complete them and get them back to you within 48 hours.  

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Is a 'Wind Mitigation' inspection included?"

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• A wind mitigation is a separate specialty inspection that can help lower homeowner insurance premiums. As a result, we have a dedicated referral partner (a licensed roofing contractor and former home inspector) that we trust to handle wind mitigation inspections for our clients, ensuring you get the specific documentation insurers require.

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I’m buying a brand-new house, do I really need a home inspection?

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• It’s a fair question — many buyers assume that a newly built home must be flawless. But in reality, even brand-new homes can have defects. Builders juggle multiple subcontractors, timelines are tight, and not every detail always gets the attention it deserves. Building code officials will inspect key components, but won't inspect the entire house. As a result, an independent inspection helps make sure your home is built right, right from the start. Here are a few additional reasons why having your brand new home inspected makes a lot of sense: 

  • Hidden spaces rarely seen again: You might store holiday decorations in the attic or basement, but chances are you’ll never crawl under the house.

  • Not just cosmetic issues: You’ll notice nail pops or a sticky bathroom door. But would you catch an HVAC system installed incorrectly, an electrical hazard, or missing attic insulation?

  • Comfort matters: Uneven heating and cooling upstairs may not just be “how the house feels” — it could be a sign of poor insulation or undersized equipment.

  • Builder walk-throughs are limited: The builder’s final walk-through focuses mostly on cosmetics (paint, flooring, finishes). A professional inspector looks deeper at the structure, systems, and safety.

  • From both professional and personal experience, homeowners who have their new home inspected before closing are consistently more satisfied with the quality of their home than those who skip it.

 

• Tip: Don’t assume the builder’s sales agent is there to represent you. Their job is to look out for the builder’s interests, not yours. To protect yourself, work with your own buyer’s agent (a Realtor), who is legally obligated to put your interests first and can help guide you through negotiations, inspections, repairs, warranties, and closing – making sure that deadlines are met, paperwork is in order and nothing slips through the cracks.​​

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• A brand-new house doesn’t mean perfect — it just means no one has lived in it yet. Scheduling inspections at pre-drywall, pre-closing, and 11 months after move-in gives you peace of mind that your home is safe, well-built, and ready to last.

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What new construction inspections do you offer?  

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• Pre-Drywall Inspection -- Performed after framing, roofing, plumbing, electrical, and HVAC are installed — but before drywall goes up. This allows the inspector to assess the wiring, pipes, ducts, framing, and equipment you’ll never see again once the walls and ceilings are closed in. 

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• Pre-Closing Inspection -- Once the house is complete, a full inspection should be done just before your final walk-through with the builder. This is the same level of inspection you’d get when buying an existing home — covering the roof, siding, finishes (walls, floors, doors, cabinets, counters), and all major systems (plumbing, electrical, HVAC, appliances).

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• 11 Month Inspection for the 1 Year Builder’s Warranty -- Most builders provide a 1 year warranty on the home that covers everything and a 10-year structural warranty. The 11-month inspection is your last opportunity to have defects corrected at no cost to you. Even if you skipped earlier inspections, this one is essential to ensure your home is in good working order and free of major defects before the warranty runs out. This essentially the same inspection you'd receive if you were buying an existing home.   

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I’m buying a house that has been fully renovated and it looks brand new – do I still need to get it inspected?

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• 'Flipped' homes often look beautiful— but beneath the new finishes, you may find outdated systems, unpermitted work, or hidden defects. Many house flippers work fast to maximize profit, sometimes focusing on cosmetics over correcting structural, plumbing, electrical, or HVAC issues.  Plus, there are inexperienced renovators who try to do the work themselves or hire unskilled labor to assist which can result in amateur quality work.

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• Before you buy, remember:

  • Fresh paint can hide cracks, moisture stains or active leaks.

  • Unskilled labor may lead to poor workmanship.

  • Missing permits can void warranties and complicate future sales.

 

• Always hire an experienced home inspector with renovation experience to evaluate the home from top to bottom. A professional inspection can reveal whether the “flip” was done right—or just looks that way.

 

• Pro Tip: If the kitchen and bathrooms sparkle but the roof, windows, or HVAC system look decades old, that’s a clue the renovation focused on looks, not longevity.  Watch for roofs that are covered with debris and new flooring that covers uneven/soft or sagging floors. A quick visual rule – if the kitchen and bathrooms look brand new but the essentials like the roof, water heater and HVAC clearly aren’t, the “flip” may be only skin-deep.

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I’m buying a handyman special and everything needs to be replaced -– do I still need to get it inspected?

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• Yes — and maybe even more so. Even if you plan to gut the house down to the studs, a home inspection can uncover major structural or safety issues that affect how you approach the renovation. For example, foundation cracks, termite damage, outdated wiring, or hidden moisture problems can all drastically increase the project cost or change the scope of work.

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• Whether the house needs minor remodeling or a complete rehab, a home inspection gives you a clear baseline of the home’s true condition before you start tearing into it.  It helps you plan your renovation budget realistically and negotiate the purchase price accordingly. Think of it as a roadmap — the inspection identifies what you don’t see, so you can start your renovation with eyes wide open.

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• Pro Tip: Even with a thorough home inspection, once renovation begins and walls or floors are opened up, it’s common to uncover hidden issues that couldn’t be seen before — things like concealed moisture damage, termite damage or structural issues.  As we have discussed, a home inspection is primarily a visual assessment of what’s accessible at the time of the inspection, not a guarantee that the home is free of defects. Be prepared — additional repairs beneath the surface are a part of any major renovation. The goal is to go in informed and ready, not blindsided.

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Do you inspect historic homes in Charleston?

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• Absolutely — inspecting Charleston’s historic homes is one of our specialties! Over the past 20+ years of inspecting homes throughout the Lowcountry, we’ve had the privilege of assessing homes that are centuries old and are still strong, sturdy and ready for the next hundred years. Charleston’s historic housing reflects a range of distinct building eras, each with its own materials, craftsmanship and quirks that's helpful for today's home buyers to know about . . . . 

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• Pre-Revolutionary (1700s) -- Charleston was one of the wealthiest cities in colonial America, and many homes built in the mid-to-late 1700s still stand today — especially south of Broad Street. These early structures were typically framed with dense old-growth lumber, built on tabby foundations (a lime-and-oyster-shell concrete), and originally roofed with wood shingles such as cypress.

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• Antebellum period (early-to-mid 1800s) -- As a thriving port city, Charleston saw a surge of construction between roughly 1800–1860. Many iconic Single Houses, double-piazza homes, and Greek Revival residences date to this era. Roof materials increasingly shifted toward fire-resistant options like slate, clay tile, and early metal systems as cities responded to fire risks.

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• Post-Civil War / Victorian era (1870s–late 1900s) -- Economic hardship after the Civil War slowed large-scale redevelopment. Ironically, this preserved many earlier homes that might otherwise have been replaced. Victorian-era updates introduced evolving materials and decorative styles while older structures remained intact.

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• Early 20th century (1900s–1940s) -- Selective redevelopment and modernization introduced indoor plumbing, electricity, early heating systems, and later mechanical cooling — layers that are often found integrated into much older buildings today.

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• Historic Charleston homes were designed for durability and climate considerations — not modern convenience. Features often included:

  • Old-growth lumber framing with exceptional density and strength

  • Tabby or brick foundations adapted to coastal soils

  • Large porches and tall ceilings for cross-ventilation before air conditioning

  • Wood or coal stoves and fireplaces for cooking and heating

  • Original construction didn't include indoor plumbing or electricity

  • Early wood shingle roofing later replaced with fire-resistant slate, clay tile or metal

 

• The homes we see today in downtown Charleston have literally survived centuries of war, hurricanes, fires, earthquakes, flooding and coastal humidity — a testament to their materials and craftsmanship. As you can imagine, these homes have been repaired and renovated many times over the years as innovations like plumbing, electricity, air conditioning/heating systems and kitchen appliances were incorporated and as modern building codes came into being for safety. 

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• In fact, our home inspectors have a talent for identifying the transformations a home has gone thru and we'll share those with you. When inspecting an historic home, we evaluate it in the context of the time period in which it was built relative to modern building practices and the overall quality of the home. Since old homes have simply been around a long time, we look carefully at the parts of the home that are exposed to the elements, such as the foundation, wall coverings and roof. 

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• Buying an historic Charleston home is about understanding both its past and present -- and our inspection helps you see the full picture.​ Specifically, our home inspection will help you learn about: 

  • What is original to the home and how its been updated over time

  • The home's original structure and if there are any current structural concerns (that said, we are not structural engineers, but will happily refer you to an engineer when needed). 

  • The age and condition of materials and systems and what needs repair or replacement 

  • If there are any safety hazards which need correction 

  • If there is moisture or a leak where it shouldn't be and needs repair​

  • If there are opportunities for improvements such as encapsulating a crawlspace, adding insulation to the attic or upgrading the electrical system to better fit demands of our modern lifestyle.

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• ​So if you're buying an historic home, plan on being at the inspection if you can -- you won't want to miss what the home inspector has to tell you about it!

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Do you check for radon as part of your home inspection? 

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• Radon is an invisible, odorless gas produced by the natural decay of uranium in soil and rock that can seep into homes from the soil beneath the foundation. Certain regions — especially those with rocky or clay-heavy soil — are more prone to elevated levels. However, the sandy, coastal plain geology of the Lowcountry is less prone to generating high concentrations of radon gas compared to the mountainous, uranium-rich rock of other regions. Additionally, many homes in the Charleston area are built on concrete slabs or crawlspaces rather than basements, which reduces the number of entry points and the potential for trapping gas. As a result, we do not offer radon testing. That said, any house can have increased radon levels and especially if you are moving from an area where it is standard procedure to test for radon when buying a home, we are happy to refer you to an environmental company who can perform this test for you. For more information about radon-levels in Charleston SC, you can visit the EPA's Radon Zone Map of SC or Radon Levels in SC Homes. 

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Do you check for mold, lead paint or asbestos as part of your home inspection? 

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• We don't test or inspect for the presence of mold -- what we do instead is look for moisture where it shouldn't be so the source of the leak can be repaired. For example, a ceiling stain may be a sign of an active roof leak and there may be mildew in that area as well. Or, the stain may be from a one time overflow of the drain pan under the HVAC unit in the attic (it was wet at one time and then dried, but not an on-going leak). When we see a moisture stain on the wall or ceiling, we'll use our moisture meter and infrared camera to determine if the stain is wet or dry, then investigate further to identify the source of the leak so that it can be repaired, which will stop the moisture and mold growth. Then a good cleaning or painting can halt the growth. 

 

• If you're buying an older house that has a musty smell and you have a mold allergy, you may benefit from having a general air quality test and we can refer you to an environmental company who can perform this test for you. 

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• If you're buying an older house on a crawlspace, your home inspector determine what the moisture content of the wood is inside the crawlspace.

  • If the wood is dry, it may still have surface fungi which developed at some point in the past when the humidity in the crawlspace was much higher. Fungi on dry wood is considered to be 'inactive' because the wood isn't wet enough for it to grow. In this case, we can refer you to companies who can clean the fungi off the wood, to the extent possible.

  • If the moisture content of the crawlspace wood is elevated, the wood likely has active fungi that is growing and needs to be addressed. In this case, your home inspector will look for signs of wood rot which means the wood has been damaged by the moisture and those areas will need to be replaced. Then, it will be important to reduce the humidity in the crawlspace so that the wood can dry out and then remain as dry. There are a variety of options to reduce crawlspace humidity starting with:

    • installation of a vapor barrier which covers the entire crawlspace ground (and prevents moisture vapor from seeping up from the ground)

    • installation of gutters all the way around the house in order to redirect rain water run-off away from the foundation (so it doesn't seep into the crawlspace)

    • installation of a sump pump to pump rain water run-off out of the crawlspace and away from the foundation

    • re-grading yard/ground around the foundation to encourage water to drain away from the foundation,

    • installation of foundation vent fans to increase crawlspace ventilation

    • seal the crawlspace and install a full vapor barrier and commercial dehumidifier for maximum climate control. 

 

• If you're buying an older home built in 1978 or older, and unless its been recently renovated 'down to the studs', its a good idea to simply assume there is lead paint on the walls, window sills, baseboards, trim, etc. which has been painted over. If you have young children and pests, there are diy lead paint test kits that you can purchase in-store and online as well as environmental companies who can test and remove lead paint for you, for safety.

 

• If you're buying an older home built in the mid-1980's or older, asbestos was used in a lot of building materials back then -- popcorn ceilings, ceiling tiles, flooring, insulation, siding, etc. Especially if you're planning a renovation project, there are a variety diy asbestos test kits you can purchase in-store and online and there are environmental companies who can test your home's building materials and professionally remove asbestos (if present) as well, for safety.  

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